Something about Auto Ignition Coil

2010-04-22 – 9:30 pm

The cylinder gasoline engine the fuel and air mixture is achieved by high-voltage electric spark ignited. Ignition Coil is the formation of such high-voltage electric discharge high-pressure components, resulting in a high voltage up to 30kV or more. Therefore, how to handle the Ignition Coil insulation strength is to improve product quality, reliability and life of the key.

The vast majority of used car ignition coil groove around the frame structure, and size is also much smaller, but because of the ignition coil is composed of a variety of components, Solenoid Switch if not effectively deal with the resin encapsulation, the air would have been different degrees of being buried the air gap formed between the windings. In addition, the high-voltage ignition coil to generate tens of thousands of volts of pulse amplitude voltage, Ignition Module, layer and layer, layer and ground, especially between the end layer on the ground, are distributed among the different capacities of the distributed capacitance, so that high-voltage ignition coil formed a non-uniform electric field. As the air dielectric constant smaller role in high-voltage, under the surface of winding wires gradually increase the temperature of some weak points, resulting in partial carbonization of the insulating layer and chemical corrosion, the formation of the whole discharge over time, leading to partial breakdown coil , resulting in short circuit, damaged parts. After a defective anatomical analysis, confirmed the breakdown of the Ignition Coil is the main reason for damage to components.

Solve the air-insulated coil is the best way to deal with resin vacuum casting process. The so-called resin vacuum casting process, is the first casting resin potting compound for vacuum deaeration treatment, then through the pre-baking drying treatment, the ignition coil to be encapsulated in a vacuum casting chamber for pre-vacuum drying processing, the coil and the skeleton, the line between the bag and the shell of gas all the gases are then in a vacuum condition with a fully de-bubbles that have been a good potting mix package.

Vacuum encapsulation devices, the encapsulation process is also different. However, the overall process to much the same. The following combination of Science and Technology, Tianjin University Tianbo H100 resin produced by vacuum encapsulation equipment, to explore problems in casting solutions and casting processes need attention.

Brake Wheel Cylinder Replacement

2009-02-05 – 3:43 am

Brakes are located at each wheel to enable the vehicle to come to a complete stop.

The brake wheel cylinder applies pressure to the brake shoes. The brake shoes apply pressure to the brake drum, which in turn slows down or stops the vehicle.

Drum brake systems are generally used on the rear of modern vehicles. The brake drum is attached to the wheel and rotates along with it. As the brakes are applied, brake shoes are pushed into contact with the brake drum, slowing the vehicle. The harder the brakes are applied, the more firmly the brake shoes press against the brake drums, resulting in the vehicle stopping in a shorter distance.

Over time, the wheel cylinders may deteriorate and may not be able to contain the brake pressure, resulting in a loss of brake fluid. To replace the brake wheel cylinder, the technician removes the wheel and brake drum. The brake shoes and associated hardware are then removed. The brake wheel cylinder is replaced, the brake components are reinstalled, and brake fluid is added to the brake reservoir. The brake pedal is then depressed continuously, forcing fresh fluid out to each wheel. The pressure opens a brake “bleeder screw” at each wheel. The brake pedal is continually depressed until fresh brake fluid exits all wheels.

A leaking Wheel Cylinder will contaminate the brake linings and greatly reduce the brake system’s performance. Brake fluid naturally absorbs moisture from the surrounding air. Moisture is an enemy of any hydraulic system; it lowers the operating efficiency of the entire brake system and may result in costly repairs if the brake fluid is not periodically replaced.

Checking Your Car’s Brake Fluid

2009-02-05 – 3:41 am


Things You’ll Need:

Hand Soaps

Brake Fluids

Car Manuals

Step 1:

Find the brake master cylinder. This is usually located under the hood on the driver’s side of the car, toward the back of the engine compartment. Imagine where your brake pedal would end up if it went all the way through to the engine. The brake master cylinder is a small (about 6-by-2 inches), rectangular piece of metal with a plastic reservoir and a rubber cap on top, and small metal tubes leading from it.

Step 2:

Check your manual if you aren’t sure that you’ve found the master cylinder. The rubber cap will usually read “use only DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid from a sealed container.”

Step 3:

Note that on most newer cars the reservoir is translucent and you can see the fluid level without removing the cap. There will be a “full” line, the brake fluid should be at this line.

Step 4:

In older cars (pre-1980) the brake master cylinder reservoir may be made entirely of metal so that you must take the top off to check the fluid level. The top is held on by a metal clamp, use a screwdriver to pop off the clamp and lift the lid.

Step 5:

Add brake fluid to the “full” line. Use the correct brake fluid for your car: Check the rubber cap and your owner’s manual to find out what grade of brake fluid your car requires. Most cars use DOT (Department of Transportation) 3 or 4. If the reservoir has 2 parts, fill both halves.

Wheel Cylinder

2009-02-05 – 3:39 am

A wheel cylinder is a component in a drum brake system. It is located in each wheel and is usually at the top, above the shoes. Its responsibility is to exert force onto the shoes so they can contact the drum and stop the vehicle with friction. What connects these wheel cylinders to the shoes are usually small rods shaped like a birds beak. It is very similar to a master cylinder and functions in pretty much the same way, consisting of just a simple little plunger on the inside. On older vehicles these will begin to leak and hinder the performance of the brakes, but are normally inexpensive and easy to replace.

The wheel cylinder consists of a cylinder that has two pistons, one on each side. Each piston has a rubber seal and a shaft that connects the piston with a brake shoe. When brake pressure is applied, the pistons are forced out pushing the shoes into contact with the drum. Wheel cylinders must be rebuilt or replaced if they show signs of leaking.

Brake Master Cylinder Troubleshooting

2009-02-05 – 3:38 am


Reader Question: My mechanic said that my master cylinder needs to be replaced soon. How can he tell? I brought my car in for other repairs, and I don’t know if he is just trying to sell an add-on job.

Dear concerned car owner,

So you are starting to feel uneasy about your mechanic’s recommendation? How do you know if he is doing his job correctly and looking after your best interests and your safety? When a brake master cylinder begins to go bad or fails, you will notice a soft or squishy feeling when you press down on the brake pedal. When constant pressure is maintained on the brake pedal (like when you keep your foot on it at a stop light), the brake pedal will begin to sink to the floor as the brake fluid leaks internally in the master cylinder. This is called “extended travel” when the brake pedal goes farther down than normal or than it was intended to. When this occurs you will have to “pump” the brake pedal to regain normal pressure and to keep the car from moving forward because the brakes are slowly releasing. The red brake warning dash light should come on to indicate low brake fluid, or excessive movement “travel” in the brake pedal.

You will not normally see the brake fluid leaking out externally of the brake master cylinder or from the wheel areas when this pedal softness occurs, so fluid level alone isn’t an indication of a good or bad brake master cylinder. The fluid will usually not be low or in need of topping off remember the leak is internal and the brake fluid is leaking past internal O-rings, so an obvious external sign that the master cylinder is “bad” is usually not existent.

Ok, that is great Austin, but that is not happening in my case. What else could have tipped off this mechanic to a possible faulty brake master cylinder? An external brake fluid leak could be possible, and would be visible to the mechanic as he was performing his usual under hood inspection. The master cylinder usually has a plastic reservoir that holds the brake fluid, Click for example, and this reservoir is mounted to the metal part of the master cylinder by rubber grommets. The grommets allow for some movement caused by brake pedal and fluid pressures. These grommets can leak fluid, and a visible brake fluid leak can be seen with the naked eye (brake fluid is a clear liquid).

The metal brake lines that are attached to the master cylinder can leak fluid at the threaded connections, Click for example. Brake fluid can also leak from the back of the master cylinder due to these internal O-rings we talked about earlier. When this happens, the fluid will drip down the power brake booster (the booster is what the master cylinder is bolted to), Click for example. Brake fluid will dissolve paint rather quickly, so this kind of leak will usually leave a tell-tale sign of blistering, bubbled paint under the brake master cylinder.

So if you experience any of the symptoms explained above, give your mechanic a “brake.” He was doing his job thoroughly and was trying to help. In any case, check the brake fluid level first and determine if fluid is needed. Check the cap and make sure it is fitted snuggly on the cylinder and is not leaking or showing any obvious signs of past leakage. Visually inspect the cylinder externally for fluid leaks, and wipe any accumulated dirt and debris from the area and the cylinder for ease of future inspections. The cylinder should only need a very small amount of brake fluid as part of regular maintenance, so if more than an ounce or two is needed to top off the reservoir, you should have your brake system inspected by your mechanic. Do not put off any needed repairs to your braking system.

Tags: Brake Master Cylinder, Clutch Master Cylinder

Brake Master Cylinder Repair or Replace

2009-02-05 – 3:36 am


Lube Mobile, the Mobile Mechanics repair or replace your Brake Master Cylinder where you want at your leisure.

Whether your brakes are grinding, squeeling, vibrating, pulling to one side, brake fluid leak, has a low brake pedal or simply worn out, Lube Mobile is there to help.

If your master cylinder has leak, broken or not holding pressure we can replace it for you. We use only quality parts on your vehicle. We can replace any damaged or worn parts on site at your convenience. Once all parts are fitted we will bleed the brake system and make sure the brake fluid is at the correct level.

All work comes with a 12 Month / 20,000km Warranty.

Tags: Brake Master, Brake Master Cylinder

Clutch Slave Cylinder

2009-02-05 – 3:33 am


Rebuilding a clutch slave cylinder is sometimes needed after the clutch petal is no longer working. First you should check the clutch fluid container to verify it is full. If not follow the line down to the slave cylinder while looking for leaks to identify the problem. The clutch slave cylinder is located behind the passenger side wheel on this vehicle, a miata. Remove the two bolts and the clutch line and the slave cylinder should come off to the right side.

Here is the slave cylinder. Rebuild kits for the slave cylinder are generally very inexpensive. This paticular kit was under twenty dollars. You will first need to disassemble the slave cylinder parts. Start by removing the rod and protective dust boot.

Next you will need to get the plunger piston to come out. There is no retaining ring but the plunger may still not want to come out easily. When the plunger comes out there will be a spring behind it also.

Before reassembling, clean out the insides and flush the cylinder out with some fresh brake fluid. Place a little fluid on the plunger before reinstalling. Now all you have to do is replace the old plunger piston with the new aluminum piece and reassemble the parts in the reverse order as they were removed. Hold the plunger in the assembly as it may want to pop out with the new plunger assembly. Place the plunger rod in it’s origional location and reinstall the two bolts that hold it in place. Reinstall the slave cylinder line then fill the clutch reserve with fluid. Then you will need to bleed the clutch the same way you would a brake system. Press the petal down and open the bleeder located close to the clutch line. Close the bleeder screw then release the clutch petal. Press the clutch petal down break open the bleeder screw and repeat this process. The petal should become stiff again as all the air is bled out.

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2009-01-14 – 8:14 am

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2009-01-14 – 8:10 am


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2009-01-14 – 8:05 am


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